Movements on the Move – Weekly Review (23 Feb–01 Mar 2026)

We condense a week focused on calibres: independents refining manual-wind craft, major houses repositioning flagship movements, and a notable connected release. These developments shift collector priorities—reliability, mechanical innovation and usable complexity—and raise fresh questions about servicing, parts and long-term ownership.

Announced February 23, the Habring² × SJX Chrono‑Felix Medicus focuses on purpose: a monopusher chronograph tailored for medical use, with pulsation and respiration scales. The watch underscores a durable trend among independents—designing mechanically elegant, function-first pieces rather than pure showpieces. The in-house A11C‑H0 is a hand‑wound movement offering a 48‑hour power reserve, compact dimensions and neat finishing that make routine servicing more straightforward for independent watchmakers. Practically, the Medicus trades horological flash for usable instrumentation, addressing buyers who want mechanical chronographs as tools. Technically, the monopusher architecture and choice of robust chronograph components reduce service complexity versus multi‑pusher modular designs. For collectors and professionals, this release highlights how considered movement architecture—manual winding, accessible parts, and conservative rates—can deliver both emotional appeal and long‑term ownership benefits.

Orient Star marked its 75th anniversary on February 24 with the limited M34 F8 Date, driven by the in‑house F8N64 calibre. The automatic movement, which includes a silicon escape wheel for improved magnetic resistance, delivers over 60 hours of power reserve and solid daily accuracy for everyday wear. This release underlines a continuing Japanese focus on durable, modern mechanics at accessible price points: silicon components, extended power reserves and manufacture workflows that keep servicing predictable and parts available. For owners, that translates to longer service intervals and better tolerance against daily magnetic exposure. Technically, the F8N64 positions Orient Star as a compelling practical alternative to mainstream Swiss entry‑level calibres—offering manufacture pedigree without overcomplicating maintenance.

On February 24 TAG Heuer reintroduced a split‑seconds rattrapante into the Carrera, powered by the TH81‑01. The in‑house automatic calibre runs at 36,000 vph, featuring a vertical clutch, column wheel and a rattrapante mechanism developed with Vaucher. It offers a significant power reserve (up to 65 hours) and sophisticated finishing intended to keep performance stable. From a service perspective, the rattrapante complication increases servicing complexity and cost—specialized adjustment and component care are required—so owners should plan for expert maintenance. For end users, the payoff is clear: true dual‑timing functionality in a serially produced case, signalling that accessible haute horlogerie continues to push technical boundaries while demanding higher aftermarket expertise.

On February 25 TAG Heuer revealed a Formula 1 edition of the Connected Calibre E5, illustrating the meeting point of connected tech and watchmaking DNA. Built on the Calibre E5 connected platform, the model adds race‑specific watch faces and software tailored to circuits and event timing. Technically this underlines that connected “movements” extend the watch ecosystem rather than replace mechanical calibres—combining hardware design with ongoing software support. For buyers, the appeal is flexibility: a digitally rich experience in a recognizably horological package. Aftercare now includes software maintenance—over‑the‑air updates, firmware and sensor calibration—so ownership involves both traditional servicing and digital support lifecycles.

On February 25 Krayon introduced a rose‑gold Anyday, driven by the hand‑wound calibre C032. The in‑house movement—an impressively slim 5 mm architecture comprised of 378 parts—powers a full‑month planner displayed around the dial with weekend/week day differentiation. The function relies on two synchronized cams to enable instantaneous date jumps and smooth month transitions, demanding precise cam profiles and targeted lubrication. For watchmakers this raises revision‑level tolerances; for owners it delivers an unusually practical mechanical agenda that requires specialist servicing. The Anyday therefore exemplifies a strand of modern independent watchmaking: highly complex, utilitarian complications executed in a restrained, wearable form.

One notable industry thread cited during the week (February 24) highlights Breguet’s emphasis on a contemporary movement for minute repeaters—the calibre 1896—which combines traditional chiming craft with modern enhancements. The calibre includes silicon components to improve magnetic resistance and targets an extended power reserve (around 75 hours), showing how historic maisons are blending acoustic heritage with contemporary materials science. Minute repeaters require precise gong attachment and case acoustics; modern silicon escapements and optimized gear trains reduce environmental sensitivity. For service providers and collectors, that amplifies a long‑standing reality: chiming movements need specialized skill sets and planned servicing, making ownership both rewarding and logistically demanding.